Mumbai, India: More than I expected

I arrived in Mumbai on March 10 after a 15 hr flight. I only really knew three things for sure coming to India:

1. It was going to smell different
2. There were going to be a LOT of people
3. I was going to be humbled

It didn't take long for all three to be validated. #1 was validated immediately after stepping outside of the airport.

I think when people hear that, they assume it is probably much like B.O. It isn't. It's not entirely describable but the more time I spend here observing and learning, I am aware that the smell is likely from the result of the lack of "proper" sewage systems. And different spices contributing to the output. ...Diplomacy -- I'm trying.

In any case, Matt's coworker and his wife, Matt and Caryl Hall live in Mumbai. He is from the US, she is British.

Caryl and Matt live a life here they probably would not be able to live elsewhere. While in Mumbai, the company pays for living expenses, M. Hall's full salary and other things. Therefore, they have a driver and a housekeeper (who cooks and helps care for their 9 month old baby of dual citizenship to England and the US). Their driver, Sanjay, works 7 days a week for about $300-400/month.

Since both Matts work Mon-Sat (6 day working week in India), Caryl very generously invited me on a little tour around Bandra, Mumbai. Sanjay weaved in and out of traffic in a way that anyone in the US would normally consider erratic. But that is how it is... Lanes (if there are even any markings for them) are really only 'suggestions'. Large cars, tuk tuks, motorcycles, bicycles, pedestrians -- all navigating through the streets agreed upon accepted chaos.

The tour Caryl took me on consisted of a few spots: we stopped for lunch, visited the local market where she sends help out to pick up her groceries, saw the outskirts of the Dharavi slum (the largest slum in the world -- 1 mile square holding 1 M inhabitants), drove past the Matts' office building, walked on the shore of Juhu Beach (one of the most famous beaches in Mumbai) and stopped for coffee at the Marriott where she and her husband have a year round membership.

In order from left to right (click to enlarge):

• Juhu Beach
• Dharavi Slum
• Kids playing
• Bamboo scaffolding
  

I am aware that everything I have written has been fact-based. Hardly any emotional connection. It is hard to express. There is such polarity between where I am sitting and what I am seeing. It can't be fully processed. Fortunately.

I imagine people would assume, the way I did, that Mumbai is not a place you'd want to visit. It is characterized by filth, odor, poverty, pollution, congestion. Admittedly, these are undeniable. There are moments that are heart wrenching and surreal. I could have bet that a desperate looking woman begging in the streets holding a slumped over infant had let it die of dehydration and heat but toted it around for begging leverage. If it was not dead, she seemingly did not notice or see purpose in wiping what I believe was bubbling blood from the side of its face. It would be safe to say that was among the top 3 worst scenes for me here yet.

However, though hard to believe after hearing of that, I have also gained the perspective that there are SO many people here struggling together. It is their way of life. They are families in close quarters. There are a lot of people with an arm around the shoulder of another, families playing with one another, camaraderie.

Last year, we visited Athens. It was not impeccably clean, but it was not carpeted in garbage the way that Mumbai is. It endures a struggling economy, but living conditions are not slums -- and vast slums at that. Yet, the people in Athens seemed more suspicious, sly, greedy and threatening. Here, while you need to remain aware of your surroundings as with anywhere, there is more peace. I am not scared here. I like it here. I venture to say that I prefer Mumbai to Athens.